How to use the Curly Girl Method: Your 7-step guide for healthy, defined curls (2025)

For anyone with curls, coils, or waves, you’ll know that a one-size-fits-all approach to haircare just doesn’t cut it. What keeps your straight-haired friend’s strands swishy and sleek could leave your ringlets dry, frizzy or shapeless. And if there’s one texture that demands more TLC than the rest, it’s curls.

That’s because curly hair tends to be naturally drier and more fragile than straight hair. The bends and kinks in the hair shaft make it trickier for natural oils to travel down the lengths, leading to dryness, breakage and dullness if it’s not properly cared for. Add heat styling, chemical treatments or the wrong kind of products into the mix, and your curls can quickly lose their bounce.

The good news? With the right technique (and a little patience), curly hair can thrive. The ‘Curly Girl Method’ – an approach to haircare that focuses on nurturing your hair’s natural texture – is helping millions of people do just that. But what is it, how does it actually work, and is it really right for you? Below, we asked curly hair expert Charlotte Mensah to break down the technique that’s recently blown up on TikTok, and explains how you can care for your curls in the best way for you.

The Curly Girl Method (or CGM, as it’s often abbreviated online) is a curl-care approach that prioritises moisture, definition and overall hair health by cutting out ingredients and habits that can be damaging for textured hair. Think: no sulphates, silicones, heat styling or brushing when dry.

It was first coined by hairstylist Lorraine Massey in her 2001 book Curly Girl: The Handbook, but in recent years, it’s found a whole new wave of popularity thanks to TikTok – where #CurlyGirlMethod has racked up over 3.5 billion views and counting. From transformation videos to curl tutorials, social media has turned the Curly Girl Method from a niche haircare philosophy into a full-on movement.

But while the term is currently trending on TikTok, the core principles have remained the same: hydrate, protect, and enhance your natural texture.

‘The Curly Girl Method is a hair care approach designed specifically for naturally curly and coily hair textures,’ explains Charlotte Mensah, award-winning hairstylist and founder of Hair Lounge salon in Notting Hill. ‘Its main goal is to enhance curl definition and promote healthy hair by avoiding damaging practices and ingredients.’

Whether your strands form gentle S-waves or tight coils, the Curly Girl Method can be adapted to work for your curl type. ‘There’s a big difference between someone with loose waves and someone with tightly coiled curls,’ says Mensah, ‘so naturally, I’d approach each hair type differently.’

She stresses that preparation is key. ‘Adapting the Curly Girl Method starts with getting the hair as clean and healthy as possible. That means doing a detox cleanse to remove product build-up, sweat and dirt.’ Her go-to? The Manketti Oil Exfoliating Salt Scrub, which is sulphate-free and made with natural ingredients sourced from Pampra in Accra, Ghana, alongside Himalayan sea salts. ‘It offers a clean slate without stripping the hair, which is essential before tailoring the rest of the method to a specific curl pattern.’

Yes – and most of them come down to product choice. ‘One of the most common mistakes beginners make is using shampoos and conditioners that contain high levels of sulphates,’ says Mensah. While not all sulphates are harmful, many of the harsher surfactants found in traditional foaming formulas can strip curly hair of its much-needed moisture.

Instead, try switching to sulphate-free formulas and look out for hydrating ingredients like glycerin, aloe vera and oils that nourish the hair without weighing it down. It’s also worth avoiding silicones, which can coat the hair shaft and build up over time – particularly if you’re not then using sulphates to wash them out.

Step 1: Shampoo

The Curly Girl Method recommends ditching sulphate shampoos, which can strip your hair of its natural oils. Instead, use a sulphate-free cleanser or a cleansing conditioner (otherwise known as co-washing) which gently removes product build-up without drying your curls.

If your hair has heavy build-up, start with a final 'reset wash' using a clarifying shampoo, then go sulphate-free from there.

Step 2: Condition, condition, condition

Curly hair is naturally drier, so deep hydration is key. Use a rich, silicone-free conditioner, focusing on your mid-lengths and ends. Detangle your hair gently using your fingers or a wide-tooth comb while the conditioner is in – never brush dry curls!

Step 3: Rinse with care

Some CGM followers opt for a full rinse, while others prefer a 'squish to condish' technique – adding water and squishing the conditioner into the hair to encourage curl clumps and extra moisture. Play around to find what works best for your curl pattern.

Step 4: Apply your styling products to soaking wet hair

To lock in definition and prevent frizz, apply your leave-in conditioner, curl cream, or gel while your hair is still dripping wet. Scrunch your hair upwards to encourage curl formation.

If you’re using a gel or mousse product, don’t panic if your curls feel crunchy once dry – you’ll 'scrunch out the crunch' in a later step.

Step 5: Dry gently

Avoid rough towel drying, which can disrupt your curl pattern and cause frizz. Instead, use a microfibre towel or cotton t-shirt to gently scrunch excess water from your hair.

Alternatively, use a diffuser on low heat and low speed to enhance volume and definition without causing damage.

Step 6: Scrunch out the crunch

Once your hair is 100% dry, gently scrunch out the crunchy gel cast with dry hands or a few drops of lightweight oil. This step leaves curls soft, bouncy, and touchable – while still holding their shape.

Step 7: Refresh between washes

To maintain your curls in between wash days, lightly mist your hair with water or a curl refresher spray, then scrunch to revive definition. Sleeping on a silk pillowcase can also reduce friction and frizz.

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• 27 best natural curly hair products and how to use them
• Almond oil for hair: what are the benefits of this haircare superhero?
• Should I be using hair sunscreen? All you need to know about hair SPF
• Paloma Faith gets candid about her stress related hair loss

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